Forks Up: Winning an Oscar

April 30, 2025 | 12:15 am

Updated April 30, 2025 | 7:03 am

Christy Chaney (left) and Chef Will Preston reviewed Oscar's Mexican Cantina.

Welcome to Forks Up, your guide to what’s worth a bite in the ’Boro and beyond. Chef Will Preston, a Le Cordon Bleu Grand Diplôme chef and industry veteran since 1993, was born in Los Angeles and brings Gen X snark to the table. He became a general manager at 24 and is currently dishing out serious flavor from the East Coast Eats food truck and the kitchen at Libertalia. Christy Chaney, born and raised in Owensboro, has spent decades working in, owning, and advocating for locally owned businesses. A lifelong foodie and unapologetic travel snob, she knows sometimes the best dishes are found right where you stand. Follow along as they eat their way down the street — one local bite at a time. Forks up!

There are a few undeniable truths in the Owensboro Mexican restaurant scene: chicken, cheese, and rice are basically a love triangle; margaritas can range from decent to “Did I just text my ex?”; and if you’ve dined out more than twice, odds are you’ve been served by one of the Oscar Seguras — Senior or Junior.

Recently, Chef Will and I took a drive down KY 54 to check out a new establishment aptly named Oscar’s Mexican Cantina. First impression? This isn’t your average Mexican restaurant. The space still carries echoes of its former life as a sports bar — more touchdowns, less telenovela — but that doesn’t mean the food isn’t worth talking about.

Chips and salsa landed on the table moments after our butts hit the booth (as it should), and the Monday night crowd was no joke: packed with families, groups of friends, and a full bar. We kicked things off with an order of fresh guacamole, which we promptly forgot about … because, unfortunately, it never arrived. A slight stumble, but we’ll let it slide — this time.

As a SoCal native with a Hispanic family background, Chef Will isn’t exactly new to Mexican cuisine. 

“I’m very familiar with traditional flavors,” he said. “And I can honestly say Oscar’s did not disappoint. The rice was really close to my grandma’s recipe, which blew me away.”

And it didn’t stop there. 

Next up was a smattering of street tacos. We ordered one of each: al pastor, steak, chicken, carnitas, chorizo, and birria, each served on doubled-up corn tortillas and topped with diced onions and cilantro. (One of us has the OR6A2 gene — the one that makes cilantro taste like a bar of Irish Spring — but it was easy enough to pick off.) Two house-made sauces — a verde and a bold, spicy red — came on the side and packed just the right punch, along with fresh limes to brighten up the flavor. For future ordering, get the chorizo, the birria (you’ll see a theme here soon), and the al pastor.

“The flavors were legit,” Will added. “Exactly what I want when I’m craving tacos.”

Oscar’s Nachos arrived next, and if you’re going to name a dish after yourself, after your son, and then after your restaurant, it better not miss. Chorizo, chicken, shrimp, and white cheese dip were layered onto a mountain of crunchy chips. The queso wasn’t your run-of-the-mill bowl of creamy filler — it was flavorful, rich, and clung to the chips like it had something to prove. A scatter of shredded lettuce added freshness, though we did raise an eyebrow at the lone scoop of sour cream sitting on top. A crema drizzle would’ve elevated the presentation, but hey, we’re not here for dainty.

And then came the main event: the quesabirria. Once upon a time, I had no idea what birria even was. Thank you, TikTok. Now I find myself borderline emotional over tender braised beef, folded into a griddled cheese quesadilla and dunked in a cup of rich, steamy consomé. If this isn’t the nectar of the gods, I don’t know what is.

“Oscar’s is the kind of place I’d bring friends or family,” Will said. “Great food, great vibes. Forks up from this SoCal kid. Orale vatos.”

Bottom line: This place isn’t trying to be something it’s not. It’s flavorful, casual, and buzzing with energy. You might come for the margaritas, but you’ll stay for the birria — and maybe get served by an Oscar.

Christy: It’s not your traditional taco joint, and that’s part of the charm. Despite a no-show guac and a lone sour cream blob, the tacos delivered, the queso made an impression, and the quesabirria had us spiritually renewed. Plus, any place where you’re likely to be served by a living legend (or his son) gets extra points in our book.

Chef Will: Oscar’s isn’t trying to be your abuela’s kitchen, but that’s not the point. The food was flavorful, the vibe was fun, and the plate presentation had its act together. The rice was a standout, and the tacos hit all the right notes. Would I come back? Absolutely. Bring some friends and go full send on those nachos.

Final review: We give this a solid Forks Up! 

Extra note: Food was purchased, and eventually, all leftovers were consumed by teenagers. Zero food waste review. 

April 30, 2025 | 12:15 am

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